Thursday, 29 October 2015

Contemporary Elizabethan Hair

Creating an Elizabethan look and making it contemporary was so good! 
I do like the Elizabethan look but there's only so many heart shaped designs and hair styles you can think of. 

I wanted to create something someone could wear today, something that was very wear able yet still set in that era. My inspiration was to create something big and bold yet cute and pretty. 
This look is very 60's but I have made sure all the hair was off the face, there are modern twist on every aspect of this look but still very Elizabethan. 

I found this image which I found inspiration from for today's practice. 

On the day my model had a really good make up look so I used that to my advantage too, so being able to create a look where the make up complements it was good. 

I knew what I wanted to do in my head but putting it into practice and thinking about every aspect priced a task. 

I was very lucky that my model had lovely long hair so I could create a perfect look as what what I had in my head. 

Creating the Look 

1. I sectioned off the hair at the front to do Swedish braids, but st the front they both started as if one was behind the first one, both going down the sides of the hair line down behind the ears. 
2. I sectioned that back into two sections. The top and the bottom. 
3. I left the top smooth and straight and back combed it all and smoothed out the top of the hair. 
4. Getting all the back combed hair I rolled it up and pinned it on the base of the section of hair instead of under the section. 
5. As it just looked like a sausage I pulled the roll down so it shaped around the head. I pulled the braids back around the roll and pinned them in with the roll at the bottom/back of the roll 
6. Once I had pinned and shaped that to how I wanted it I moved on to the back of the hair. I pulled it all back and put it into a pony tail quite high up so the top of  the bun will come the bottom of the role. 
7. With the hair in the pony tail I created a modern bun. Getting one section, slightly back combing and then doing a barrel curl. I pinned each barrel curl into place creating a bun shape. 
8. With pins I moulded the bun to create a circular shape and pinned into place. 
9. This was my look completed but I went over every aspect of the look, smoothed out, pinned and moved around to make sure it looked neat and perfect like the Elizabethans hair was. 




Reflection 

I really loved creating this look. It's something I've never created before and I could do what ever I liked. As long as it was Elizabethan inspired, which it was. 

I wanted to braid around the front but do something totally different so braiding one behind the other I haven't really seen before. I thought the braids looked really good and I was so pleased with my neatness as l don't usually do Swedish braids that often. 

The back I was so pleased with too I wasn't sure how I was going to do the big quiff at the back and make it work but some how it just fell straight into place just how I wanted it.  

The bun too was pretty easy for me, my model had really long hair to I had loads to work with. The bun came out much better than I was expecting too. It looked really full and big which is what I wanted. 

The only thing I didn't like about creating this look was the front braids, I have only done those braids a few times so getting them beat and looking good took me a few minutes longer than it should have because I kept messing up. I eventually got there and got it exactly how I wanted it but practice makes perfect. 

Overall, I'm very happy with the look I created, I loved it. My model said she would even wear it out if she was in the right outfit and setting. I was very pleased with how neat I got it to look, if you practice what you're doing it gets much easier so creating this look for me had challenging parts and some not to challenging but I loved the look and k was very happy with the outcome too. 





Tuesday, 27 October 2015

Introduction

In this project I will be looking in depth into Elizabethan hair styles, focusing on Queen Elizabeth her self. I will be discussing the colours, textures, hair design and trends women wore in that era and what importance it had. By researching in to this I will be creating ways of how these fashions can be created into a contemporary style.

My first thoughts on Elizabthan hairstyles are they look much more well created and 'fixed' to the head compared to our modern hair styles. Looking at portraits of Queen Elizabeth showed you how she was the fashion icon of her era and all the wealthy woman would go to great lengths just to look like her.

Queen Elizabeth I

Even though she had natural red hair, other women would use a concoction of ingredients to dye their hair. The Queen also had a variety of wigs which she would wear, this is a sign of wealth as not just any one would wear a wig in those days.
Having frizzy hair was very popular too, having curls and the hair all put up was how to wear it in those days, all off the face. Like in the picture her hair is very curly and frizzy, its held in place with the band covered in pearls and jewels and it looks like there is a veil on there too. Women wore loads of different head pieces to keep their hair back and wealthier women would wear peals and jewels on theirs to show people how wealthy they are.

There was no fringes in the Elizabethan era as women would shave their hairline, having a bigger forehead was so seen to others that you are 'knowledgeable'. Ladies would also pluck their eyebrows in to thin arches to make their forehead appear bigger.
Their hair was always put up and each side would be A symmetric to the other, a very fashionable look was making the hair create a love heart shape. Adding pearls, diamonds and hats into the hair showed other men and women how rich and powerful the women were by being able to wear expensive jewellery in her hair. Before marriage women would have their hair down to show they were still available.

In the Elizabethan era, the main thing to wash your hair in was a mixture called 'lye', it was made from wood ash and water.

I will be going in to depth the different ways of how these styles were created and which techniques they used. Also, recreating these looks and making them in to a contemporary style.

http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/05/20/beauty-history-the-elizabethan-era/
http://www.thetudorswiki.com/page/Queen+Elizabeth+I+-+Historical+profile
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/29/21/18/2921186f8456b5532657b4649a2c303e.jpg



Wednesday, 21 October 2015

Elizabethan Styling

On my model I decided to do a traditional heart shaped Elizabethan style, crimping the hair at the front and doing a smooth braided bun in the back. 
I chose to do this design as it totally represents Queen Elizabeth, the frizzy heart shaped hair was all the craze and women all over wanted to create her look. 

My model had thick, long hair so I had a great advantage as I could create any look that I wanted. I wasn't limited to a certain style as I had all the hair I would ever need. 

This image gave me inspiration for today's styling. 


What I did 

1. I sectioned off the hair into the 2 feont sections and one back section
2. I crimped both front sections using the heated crimpers 
3. I used a paddle brush on the crimped hair so it doubled in size 
4. Using a small tooth comb I back combed the hair in sections so it had stability to the hair and wasn't floppy 
5. I then smoothed out the front of the hair and rolled it up around my fingers and pinned it to the head, making the bottom tighter than the top to make a heart shape 
6. The back of the hair I put into a pony tail and did loads of little braids instead of one big one 
7. As some of the hair had layers some braids were longer than others, I arranged the braids to made a bun and his all the extra hair and elastic bands 

This was my first attempt 
This was the look after I had changed the front 


Reflection

I really enjoyed creating this look on a human rather than on my Katie doll, doing it in real hair, a real person and looking at the models face shape and creating something to suit that too was good. 
I really liked crimping and styling the hair as it gives you an idea of how it was done back in the Elizabeth era. We probably have more techniques and hair tools now but you can still see how they looked back then. 

I was really happy with my end result a the hair in the braided bun stayed in place with the extra pins I used and the front looked very big as she had thick hair and the crimping just increased the size too. 

When I looked in the mirror I did think it looked more like a big bow at the front of the head as I left the partin on a side partin too. So I decided to take the sides out change the partin to a middle one and recreate the heart shape. Once j changed it, it looked much better and more like an Elizabethan look. 
I really glad I changed the partin and the two front sections to make more of a classic heart shape as I could see the difference and it looked much better than the first attempt. 

Also, the braids in the back of the head which I wrapped around to create a bun shape were different lengths in braid as the hair has disconnected layers. So as I was braiding the hair one section would just end and I would have a long but if hair left. So as I wrapped the hair around to create the bun j had to hide the elastic bands and then the extra hair too. 

I did find this quite easy as I have a lot of practice doing put ups but I can see why it would be difficult if someone didn't know how to 'hide' hair like hairdressers do. 

Overall, I am really pleased with the look I created as it made me see what Elizabethan hair actually looked like on a person. I really like creating the classic heart shape and doing something creative with all the hair I had left at the back. 
If I was to create another Elizabethan look I would try a different crimping technique and I would also use padding in the hair at the front to see what that looks like on a real model than my Katie head. Instead of doing a braided bun I would try something different too like a twisted bun. 








Wednesday, 14 October 2015

Plaits and Buns

Plaits and buns are one of the basic hair styles that date back from thousands of years ago.
Plaits or braids were used worldwide for numerous things from actually in the hair to creating decorative textiles. 
It is has been said that the first braid was dated back to 28,000 to 25,000 BCE worn by a female figure called Venus of Willendorf. It was found in lower Austria by workmen in 1908, the figure shows a pattern on her head of a braid type look but it is also been said that I could be a woven basket. 





Buns have always been in fashion as they  look professional and tidy. Although recently a 'man bun' has become the latest fashion trend, men used to wear their hair in a bun which dates back to 6th-7th century BCE , it was Buddah of Nepal who wore his hair in a bun a those years ago which has now become one of the hottest trends in 2015. 
Even in the 3rd century BCE Terracotta Warriors in China would wear their hair in a bun too. 


In the modern world plaits and buns have been recreated and changed into so many different styles. There are French plaits, Swedish plaits, fishtail plaits, waterfall plaits and countless more! And buns have also become more fashionable in the recent years, you can have a nice sleek bun or a messy top knot and still look on trend. 

How to create
 
Creating these looks can be really easy but practice makes perfect! 

Buns 
 
Standard bun - 
1. Start off by pulling all the hair up into a bobble or elastic band 
2. You will section the hair into 4 parts, take one section towards the front of the head and softly back comb the hair to give it some toughness. 
3. Barrel curl the hair forward and grip into place under the loop
4. Do this for all 4 sections so it looks like a flower shape making sure all sections are rolled out equally so the bun will look even 
5. Get a pin and gently close the gaps and use the pin to keep it in place 
6. Once all the gaps are closed spray with hairspray to keep in place 

Twisted bun 
1. Start off with the hair tied up into a pony tail using a bobble or elastic band
2. Twist all the hair not too tightly and wrap the hair around the elastic 
3. Use a grip to hold the loose end in place 
4. Pull down the opposite side onto the head and use a pin to keep in place 

Braided bun - 
1. Again start off with the hair in a pony tail by using a bobble or elastic 
2. Braid the hair into a loose braid not too tight and then wrap the hair around the elstaic 
3. Grip the loose end into place and use a pin where else needed to pull out the bun to make more circular 

A contemporary take in the classic Elizabethan bun, this one is sort kf a in which has a decorative 'caul' over the hair too. 

Plaits 
 
Classic plait - 
1. Section the hair into thee sections 
2. Place one from the left into the middle over lapping the middle one 
3. Then take the one on the right over lapping the middle one 
4. Keep repeating until you get to the bottom of the hair 

French plait - 
1. Start at the top of the head and take 3 sections again 
2. This time when you take a section into the middle add a piece of hair with it
3. As you go down the head keep adding to each section till you get to the bottom 
4. Keep tension on the hair as the tighter it is the beater and easier for you to keep the hair in place 

Fishtale plait - 
1. Take your hair and divide it into 2 sections 
2. From the outer side of one section take a small section of hair and move across to the other side 
3. Keep repeating this process cross the hair over to each side until you get to the bottom 
4. Fishtails are in trend to look loose so pull out the braid slightly for a looser looks 

All these styles are so easy to create and you can adapt them into your own style, you can have a high or low bun or on trend right now a crown braid going round the head. 

A contenporary take on the classic Elizabethan plait is this lovely style, showing the detail and the decoratives in the hair. 


Reflection

I really enjoyed learning and doing these basic techniques again, as I am a fully qualifies hairdresser I do find these things very easy as I have been doing it for a few years now. But I really did enjoy learning new tricks and new ways how to do things.

The things I liked doing he most were learning how to do a bun properly, as in the salon we have limited times so doing it quick as we can the best we can was what we had to do. This way of doing a bun is quick and easy - I don't know why they don't teach it to you in college! Also, I really enjoyed learning how to do a fish tail plait. I have never actually done one before as I've never really been taught how to do them. But, this was one skill I have learnt from scratch in this lesson and I really enjoyed it, all I wanted to do was practice this plait.

I didn't really enjoy doing the French braids and the normal braids as to me it is so basic, I know how to do them and I've had lots of practice over the years so to me this part was a little bit boring but for other people in the class it was a good help as they don't know how to braid.

Overall, I loved learning how to do basic techniques, being taught from someone new you pick up different tips and hunts which you don't get when you're working with the same people all the time. So I enjoyed that but I also felt it was a little boring for me as I already know how to French braid and plait.




https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braid
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venus_of_Willendorf
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bun_(hairstyle)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gautama_Buddha
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terracotta_Army
 



Pin Curling

Pin curling is a method used by nearly every hair stylist. It is so important that when you curl hair you let the heat set, or the curl will drop out quickly. By curling the hair and rolling the curl back up you are setting the hair into that shape so it will technically fix it into place. The curl will last longer, the hair will look better and the model/client will be happier that there not backwards and forwards going back into your chair.

Curling hair dates back thousands of years, but what stands out for me is how they would create and keep the curl in the Victorian days. They would pin curl the hair and use rags to hold them in place by tying them round the hair so it doesn't slip out. These days we have grips, section clips or pin curling clips to do this for us. 

How to create 

Pin curls - 
1. Section the hair off at the back into two and then a section at the bottom of the neck 
2. Get a square section of hair and roll the hair round the curler holding it up right 
3. Hold for a few sections and gently take the curler out the hair 
4. Pin the hair in place keeping the hair rolled up whilst it's still hot 
5. Do this all over the head changing direction so the curls don't all fall the same way 
6. When all the hair has cooled down take all the grips out and dress the hair into place 

Barrel curls - 
1. Section the hair off in the back into two sides and then section off at the bottom of the neck 
2. Take a wider rectangular section and wind the hair around the tong holding the hair slighting upwards and holding the barrel side ways 
3. Hold for a few seconds and gently unclip and take out the hair from the tong 
4. Whilst it's still hot keep the hair wound up as it was around the tong and grip or clip the hair to keep in place 
5. Do this all over the head and when it has cooled down take the grips out and dress the hair 

Doing these two ways of curling on the hair is basically setting the hair but with no rollers. Directional sets are where you want the curl to go or where you want more height you would set the hair how you wanted it to flow. Where as brick work patterned sets the hair flows into shape where there are no gaps. Also following this pattern is very methodical, it's very easy to follow and is easier for you to dress out without doing much work to hide gaps. 


L - R 
Pin curls  -  Barrel curls 
Both seperate sections  -  Dressed out front view 
Brickwork  -  Dressed out brickwork

Reflection

I really enjoyed creating curls on the Katie head, as I am a trained hairdresser I found this exercise really easy as I have had so much practice at curling and pin curling hair. It was nice to refresh my memory on how the tutor wanted it doing properly, making neat sections. When you are working in a salon, you do it the quickest most efficient way, still using neat sections but you do it quicker so you can have your client in and out.
When I got taught we didn't do half a head barrel curls and half a head flat curls like what we did, we jus got taught each different way and then to practice them, getting neater and quicker the more we did it. It was good to see the difference in how the curl lays from the scalp, flat curls are exactly what they are called.. flat curl. they lay straight down from the scalp with a curl on the end. Where as the barrel curl has more volume and lays off the  scalp, with a curl still on the ends. Depending on what look you are going for depends what technique you use but I defiantly prefer the barrel curl. t gives more volume, more 'hair' in a way to work with which is really good for developing styles where you need the air to look thicker.
Brick work curling I fund very easy too as I have had lots of practice in doing this, it is the most common way of curling and using rollers for setting hair, it doesn't show any gaps or lines in the hair, it curls just the same but it lays in a nicer way on the head.

The only thing I didn't like about doing this exercise was having to use grips instead of pin curling clips, I don't like how the grip holds the hair, I prefer a clip as you can feel it grab the hair and you know its not going to fall out. The grips I was using were good and firm but I felt as if they were going to slip out of the hair.

If I was to do this again I would practice on an actual model, to get a feel of how the different techniques lay on other peoples hair. I would like to try it on long hair and short hair to see the difference in the curl and the volume on the root.

Overall, I am very happy with what we learnt today, I got to refresh my mind on one of the most basic yet frequently used techniques and I also love hairdressing so I really enjoyed playing about with my Katie head.